Maine has a great mix off tall rock escarpments, long and short trad areas, seaside cliffs, boulders and wooded sport crags like Shag Crag. Areas like the walls on Mt Kathadin are some of the longest and steepest alpine theaters in the east. One of the best Maine climbing areas, Acadia, has seaside cliffs that offer the exquisite experience of dancing over granite nubbins with lobster boats below your toes. Portland Headlight offers soft overhanging rock with boulder problems in a postcard setting: the lighthouse above the bouldering is one of the most photographed in the world! Maine offers some of the most aesthetic rock climbing opportunities in the east.
Maine rock climbing has some of the most alluring granite in the Northeast; truth. Arguably some of the best climbing in the state is in Acadia National Park; the granite cliffs are not to be missed if you visit Maine. Maine climbers love the state stone. The pinkish granite is some of the most high quality granite in New England. Many of the granite crags are not as high as New Hampshire, and it’s easy for the Maine climber to jump borders and hit North Conway. But Maine offers massive stone cliffs like Mt Kathadin near Millanocket, The Precipice in Acadia, Shag Crag and lots of other hidden crags throughought the state.
A visit to Maine is a visit warranted by any New England climber or East Coaster that is tired of the same old crags season after season. Lesser crowds, less hype, and remote settings are what distinguishes this state from other New England climbing destinations. If you visit here this season you are sure to return again to sample this amazing quality stone in a great setting.
Acadia National Park
Acadia National Park has amazing scenery and climbing.
Season and Weather
The season in Maine has some limiting factors: black flies are a season onto itself; you don’t want to be in backwoods crags during this season. This season in Maine lasts until late early July and starts in late spring. The weather in summer is slightly cooler than other New England states but you can still get 90+ days with lots of humidity, it’s just less frequent than lower NE. Winter is harsh for rock routes, ice is great however. You can have great days in spring and fall and many locals prefer these times of year than any other.
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