Broughton BLuff

Approach

12 min

Routes

212

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Approach
0.3 mi

Walk Time
10-25 min

GPS
45.541, -122.38

Ownership
Public

%

Sport

  • Sport 60% 60%

%

Trad

  • Trad 40% 40%

%

Aid

%

Sport

%

Trad

  • Aid 1% 1%
  • Toprope 12% 12%
  • Bouldering 5% 5%

North Face >

Hanging Gardens >

Red Wall >

Spring Rock >

Bat Wall >

Trinity Wall >

Berlin Wall >

Jungle Cliff >

Area Overview

Towering over the gateway to the Columbia River Gorge, Broughton Bluff is one of the most popular and high-quality crags in Portland. With over a 60-year history of climbers clinging to its 160-foot high walls, this crag is a popular after-work and weekend destination. The climbs here are excellent and the area offers dozens of trad, sport, and mixed routes. There is even a little bouldering at the Magma Zone Bouldering Area west of the main crag. 

Dogs Allowed

Kid Freindly

Short Approach

Water Supply

Water 

A water supply to fill bottles and get water access can be found at the nortwest side of the parking lot.

Toilets

There are public toilets at the parking area. They are clearly visible once you are in the main parking lot.

Topropes 

Although there is access to the top at a few select areas, particularly at the Hanging Gardens left side.  For most of the area leading is required to set TRs. 

Swimming 

Don’t miss the popular and often overcrowded swimming access just across the road from the crag.

Camping 

Camping is possible very close to the crag at the nearby RV park. See tab below.

Take exit 18 off of I-84 and go left, heading away from the highway and toward a railroad trestle. Immediately after the trestle park at the parking area on the left. This is not the first parking area that is along the highway exit ramp, rather this is the lot just down the road, on the left, near a large green area and obvious state park signage. There is always available parking. Park and walk toward the hillside and Broughton Bluff. In the back of the feild is a switchback-trail that leads up to the climbing area. From the parking lot wind uphill along the trail that heads toward the cliff base. The approach trail leads to Hanging Gardens Wall. From Hanging Gardens Wall walk east along the base and around the corner headed towards the Columbia Gorge and you locate the climbs at North Face. Walking east will take you to Hanging Gardens Wall first, then the North Face. Walking right or southwest at the top of the aproach trail will bring you to the other walls such as Red Wall, Bat Wall, Jungle Cliff, etc. Most areas at Broughton Bluff can be accessed within a 15 minute walk or less. 

Camping is available across the road at the RV campground. There are also numerous options for camping towards the gorge and Mt Hood.

Late spring to late autumn is best. Winter is  snowed in so climbing is not likely. The crag is cool in summer as it is in a shaded setting. The nearby lake has a great swimming area to cool off as well.

This is a local park with excellent access. Climbing is allowed and climbers have an excellent relationship. Make sure to pack out trash.

Bouldering

Bouldering is located at a small area called the Magma Zone. Local climber Mike Pajunas developed a lot of the early bouldering at this area. To get to this spot continue along the trail past the North Face and walk the low-travel trail to the bouldering outcrops. This area is covered in the Pacific Northwest Bouldering guidebook Portland Edition.

Broughton App

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Local Guidebook

This area and other nearby Mt Hood crags are included in the Climb Portland, Mt Hood & The Gorge Print guidebook

Broughton-Bluff

Broughton-Bluff
Not Face Sector Hanging Gardens Sector

Not Face Sector

13 Routes

Hanging Gardens Sector

32 routes Hanging Gardens Left and Right

Broughton Bluff Photos

Nearby Areas

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