Smith Rock Online Climbing Guidebook
Our free guidebook app has a free download of a Smith select guidebook. This free online guide is a small selection of classics at Smith. This guide is only a very small sampling of what is in the free app but can be used to find the classics and get you around of ra day.
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Overview Shiprock, often dubbed Shit Rock, is the massive, chossey-looking pinnacle left of Picnic Lunch Wall. Type of Climbing Although this area is often skipped by the masses. It does provide a unique Smith experience and a psuedo-alpine feel. The climbs are poorly protected, loose, and sketchy at best. If you like a real adventure and want to have the same experience the pioneers of Smith had back in the day, then this is the place for you to have a real adventure if you are up for it. Popular Routes East Chimney 5.7 R Voyage of Cow Dog 5.9 PG 3. West Chimney 5.7X 4. Table Scraps Wall Routes”, Directions: From the Bridge and the Picnic Lunch Wall walk north along the river and look for the obvious, fractured pinnacle. This is Shiprock. Walk past it and to the far side of the rock. This is where the climbable rock is. Walk uphill to the base.
1 East Chimney 5.7 R Walk up the steep hillside that leads to Table Scraps Wall and as you head up look for a large corner that wraps around into the first alcove in the Shiprock mass. Start at a chimney groove and go way right to a belay after the 5.6 first pitch. Continue into the chimney system and up and into the backside to go up to the second belay. This climb does not reach the summit.
2 West Chimney 5.7 X This climb should not be taken lightly. This was the first climb ever done at Smith: At least it’s the first one over recorded. Walk up to the uppermost end of the Shiprock pinnacle at the top of the slope and look for a point where you are at the base of the uppermost point of Shiprock on the hillside. Look for an obvious notch and climb 5.6 terrain up bad rock to a belay. Continue up 5.7 climbing following what will appear to be the easiest route. This dangerous section will give way to a scramble to the summit. Descent: A two-rope rappel is done of the South side. Bad slings and a sketchy rappel is present at the summit so it is recommended, and tradition, to bring a good sling to add to the tat pile at the summit.
3 Project Most likely in the 5.10 range, the South Buttress was abandoned in the 70s and is not worth attempting.
4. Voyage of the Cow Dog 5.9 PG Start deep in a cleft just right of Table Scraps Wall. Go past 9 bolts and a slab getting a tad runout but protected where it’s important. Pitch 2 is only 5.3 and has 4 bolts to protect this easy climbing.nnPitch 3: 5.9.nnClimb the final pitch up airy exposure passing 9 more bolts and a cruxy last move way up high.nnDescentnnYou can rap the entire route or walk off from the top. The walk-off can be long and slightly confusing.
Picnic Lunch Wall
Picnic Lunch Wall Area and Routes
Picnic Lunch Wall
Routes and Beta
Picnic Lunch Wall, is the huge, looming wall in front of you when you walk down the main trail to Smith’s popular areas. Most climbers who first visit Smith overlook this wall and head down to Morning Glory Wall or The Dihedrals, skipping some of the classics that can be found here. This area has some excellent routes and is seldom crowded. Popular Routes Scorpio 5.8 X Teddy Bear’s Picnic 5.10b PG
Picnic Lunch Wall Routes
1 Scorpio 5.8 X A poorly protected crack climb left of Pisces has some interesting moves and is a challenge, offering a much different style of climbing than is typically found at Smith Rock.
2 Honey Pot 5.9 G
Run up this sweet climb passing 11 bolts near some giant holes in the rock and a very well-protected start. Continue up to knobs up high and to an anchor.
3Teddy Bear’s Picnic 5.10b PG
A fun start moves past interesting features and takes you to thrilling climbing up higher.nnPitch 1: 5.10a.nnStart in the center of very large potholes located just left of Honey Pot and just right of a large boulder attached to the Picnic Lunch Wall. Climb past 11 bolts and continue right at a split in bolts (the left is a route called Free Lunch and is R rated). Continue up and stop at a two-bolt anchor above the Honey Pot anchor.nnPitch 2nnClimb past 12 bolts of this thrilling and exposed pitch on arguably the best section of the wall. There are optional rap and anchor points but you want to gain the topmost anchor. This is one of the best routes on this wall and is not to be missed as it provides different rock than most of Smith.nnDescentnnTwo-rope rappel takes you down this climb.