Pennsylvania Classic Climbs #1
A PA Roadtrip
By: Mark Morgan 3/14/19
This is the first part of a series about Pennsylvania’s classic climbs. We all know PA has some excellent climbing. We’re featuring a series on some of the must-do classics around the Keystone state. We’re going to start in the East to get the ball rolling and feature other parts of the state in upcoming articles. So without further ado here is the first installation of some PA climbs that should be on your ticklist.
Grandpa’s Love Jugs
Corn Flake Crack 5.7
Hueco Madness 5.10
Climb the pockets using the left side of the massive Squirrel Rock wall. This classic route offers huge sandstone pockets similar to what you would expect at the Red River Gorge and not in PA. Although this route was not originally named this, no one can remember the actual name so this one has been adopted. Whatever you decide to call it it’s a classic.
Great Expectations 5.10a
Put up by Rob Holzman and Nick Morell in the 1990s, this climb is a one-hit wonder with a short but fun crux. The well-bolted route was first lead with only one bolt in place. The excellent conglomerate here is what draws climbers to this part of PA.
The first lead-climb done at Paradise. Put up by Jeff Klovis, this is an area classic at Paradise Rock. Start atop a block at the far left end of the Main Area. Climb up to a thin crack in a left- facing corner (small gear) to a bolt near the end of the corner. Pull up over the bolt at a small ceiling and go straight up to another bolt up high in a small corner/ bulge. Climb to another bulge (bolt) and continue to a fixed-anchor above.
What are your favorites
Let us know what some of your favorite climbs are in PA. If you need any more beta on these routes check below for beta from the Next Ascent app guide for some of these climbs.