Pennsylvania’s Classic Climbs

Pennsylvania Classic Climbs #1

A PA Roadtrip

By: Mark Morgan     3/14/19

This is the first part of a series about Pennsylvania’s classic climbs. We all know PA has some excellent climbing. We’re featuring a series on some of the must-do classics around the Keystone state.  We’re going to start in the East to get the ball rolling and feature other parts of the state in upcoming articles. So without further ado here is the first installation of some PA climbs that should be on your ticklist.



Grandpa’s Love Jugs


Established by Joe Forte this is a soon to be classic. This climb is a must-do with holds reminiscent of the Red. Climb up over good edges in the cave to some amazing pockets and one lone bolt augmented with gear for the rest of the route. Awesome moves over big pockets take you out to the left side of the roof. Pull through and top out.


Corn Flake Crack 5.7


The obvious crack splitting the center of the Library Crag in Northeast Pennsylvania is one of the most fun and climbed cracks in the Mocanaqua region. The Library crag is a conglomerate area similar to Lost City style climbing at the Gunks but with mostly sport climbing at the Library.  This crack is one of several crack climbs at the crag. If you don’t get your fill here, adjacent Paradise Rock and Hawk Rock offer just as many routes.


Hueco Madness 5.10




Climb the pockets using the left side of the massive Squirrel Rock wall. This classic route offers huge sandstone pockets similar to what you would expect at the Red River Gorge and not in PA. Although this route was not originally named this, no one can remember the actual name so this one has been adopted. Whatever you decide to call it it’s a classic.

Great Expectations 5.10a




Put up by Rob Holzman and Nick Morell in the 1990s, this climb is a one-hit wonder with a short but fun crux.  The well-bolted route was first lead with only one bolt in place. The excellent conglomerate here is what draws climbers to this part of PA.


Tracer 5.11a




The first lead-climb done at Paradise. Put up by Jeff Klovis, this is an area classic at Paradise Rock. Start atop a block at the far left end of the Main Area. Climb up to a thin crack in a left- facing corner (small gear) to a bolt near the end of the corner. Pull up over the bolt at a small ceiling and go straight up to another bolt up high in a small corner/ bulge. Climb to another bulge (bolt) and continue to a fixed-anchor above.


What are your favorites

Let us know what some of your favorite climbs are in PA.  If you need any more beta on these routes check below for beta from the Next Ascent app guide for some of these climbs.

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