About the Crag
Broughton Bluff is a sport, trad, and bouldering area located a few miles outside of the city limits of Portland, Oregon. This area is a great after-work crag and a fantastic and popular weekend climbing area. Broughton Bluff also has some pretty good bouldering at an area called the Magma Zone or “The Zone” as locals call it. Note: I use the work locals liberally as virtually nobody climbs at this forgotten but excellent little bouldering area.
Broughton Bluff Climbing Area Beta
If you go expect to find grades ranging from 5.6 to 5.13+. This area has a very concentrated amount of sport routes on the Jungle and Bat walls as well as mixed trad and bolt routes at the other sub crags. The cliff is made up of a 7 mini crags that range in height from one pitch to two pitch. Some good crack climbs and aretes can be found here too. Topropes are pretty easy to set up by either leading neighboring routes or scampering up to traverse ledges near the cliff. Mostly climbers need to lead a lesser-grade route if you are seeking pure topropes however the Hanging Gardens Wall left side is easy to access and set up. More detailed toprope info is found in the 2019 Climb Portland Mt Hood and the Gorge guidebook or the 2019 Broughton Bluff Guidebook app.
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